How to insert an invisible zipper

Recently, I began experimenting with invisible zippers. I love the way they look! They're not difficult to insert and they look so nice! You will need a special foot to install them. The foot costs only a few dollars, though. (Mine came with the machine.) Here's how I do them:

1. The invisible zipper, unlike other zippers, is inserted when the seam is open. In order to have more control, I sew up the seam till I reach the zipper opening.

2. Now, you should have most of the seam sewn shut, except for the part of the seam open where the zipper will go. On this open seam you need to mark the 5/8" seam allowance on the right side of the garment. I do this by using my tape measure as a guide, since it's width is 5/8". You could also just measure it. Mark the seam allowance with a mark-b-gone marker or chalk.

3. Next, press the seam allowance that you marked and place the zipper on it with it's smooth side down. (right side of the zipper to the wrong side of the garment) Then hand baste the zipper to the seam allowance only. (Don't baste it through both layers of fabric).

4. Now you're ready to sew! You'll need a special invisible zipper foot. With my old kenmore, the zipper foot and the invisible zipper foot were the same. The foot had special groves to allow for the groves of an invisible zipper. You may need a special invisible zipper foot. luckily, they only cost a few dollars.)

5. After you've inserted the special foot you'll have to adjust the needle. Open the zipper and place the needle as close as possible to the groves of the zipper. Here's the "tricky" part. Well, it's not tricky, at all, but it's something to pay attention to, at least. Don't sew along the coils, rather, uncurl them and push them aside, then sew. If you omit this step you'll understand what I'm talking about, since the zipper won't be so invisible -- you'll see a little of it peeking through in the finished garment. You have to sew really close to the coils in order to prevent the zipper tape from showing.

   Also note that you are sewing on only one layer of fabric, which is why it is necessary to mark that 5/8" seam allowance. I recommend that you first attempt this zipper on scrap fabric and then progress to your actual garment. Personally, I feel that invisible zippers are easier to insert then the regular ones. If these instructions are unclear, don't hesitate to e-mail me and ask questions.

   Enjoy!